Climbing Mountains

For the past two days we have been climbing mountains.  Three days ago we walked on a good dirt road through rolling hills of vinyards to the lovely historic town of Villafranca del Bierzo.  Next day, after crossing the Rio Burbia on the edge of town, we began a steep climb that would last for 9km. Although challenging, it was great walking, with marvelous views of the surrounding countryside. After reaching the top of Alto Penaroldan at 935 metres, we decided to walk down the road as the track going off the side of the mountain was just too steep for my knees. Although it added another 2km onto the walk, I think it was a wise decision.

Today was the big one, the climb up over the mountains seperating the regions of Castilla and Galicia, and into the tiny village of O'Cebreiro at 1330 metres. This is the section of the Camino everyone dreads, not only because it's a tough walk, but also because of the possibility of rain, fog or snow at any time of year.  

Last night in the village of Ambasmestas, we were sitting in the bar of our hotel talking with two Aussies from Adelaide whom we had just met, when a loud clap of thunder rang out and the power went off.  It poured rain for about half an hour and then power was restored. Unfortunately we were unable to return to our room during the blackout, so had to remain in the bar with our new aquaintences drinking vino tinto. We had been so foutunate during the days walk as it looked as though it could rain at any time, but held off long enough for us to be comfortably settled in our hotel. We later received a text message from our Aussie friends from Townsville ,who are a day ahead of us, to say that it was snowing in O'Cebreiro, not welcoming news.

We set out early this morning in very cold weather, it was only 3 degrees.  Walking warmed us somewhat and after 6km we stopped for breakfast in the tiny village of Herreriss, the last opportunity for food before the real climb began. From then on the trail just kept climbing, relentlessly, for the next 10km to O'Cebreiro.  

The track soon left the bitumen road and at times became rocky, muddy, and covered in cow manure, but the one thing that didn't change was the gradient, it just remained steep all the way.  To make the walk even more difficult, for the last two hours it was drizzling rain, foggy at times, and when we finally reached the top, a flurry of snow was in the air.  It was a hard, challenging walk, quite lovely in sections through old forest, with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. It was quite a moment when we finally walked into the village. This is the section of the walk I had always been uncertain about. There were times at home when I doubted if I would be able to do it, and even at the start of the Camino we thought I might require the option of having my pack sent on so I could walk without any weight.  But today, with 31 days of walking behind me and now less than 150km to Santiago, I made it into O'Cebreiro unaided, under my own steam, and I feel very proud of my achievement.

O'Cebreiro has a special place in the hearts of the modern day pilgrim. It was from here that the local parish priest, Father Don Elias Valina Sampedro, had the vision to reopen the pilgrim route to Santiago after the chaos of the Second World War. It was his idea to mark the route with the distinctive yellow arrow and it was largely as a result of his efforts that we walk the route today. Without the yellow arrows we would have been lost 600km ago.